A brief history of Seiko and Grand Seiko watches
Founded in 1881 by Kintaro Hattori in Tokyo, Seiko began as a small watch and jewelry shop before evolving into one of the world’s most innovative watchmaking companies. The company produced its first wall clock in 1892 and launched Japan’s first wristwatch, the Laurel, in 1913. Seiko’s name, meaning “success” or “precision” in Japanese, perfectly embodies the company’s commitment to excellence and innovation in watchmaking.
Seiko revolutionized the watch industry multiple times throughout its history. In 1969, they introduced the Astron, the world’s first quartz wristwatch, fundamentally changing the landscape of timekeeping. This innovation sparked the “quartz crisis” that transformed the entire watch industry. In the same year, they also released one of the world’s first automatic chronographs, the 6139, competing with Swiss manufacturers in mechanical watchmaking excellence.
Seiko and Grand Seiko Innovations and Manufacturing Philosophy
Unlike most watch manufacturers, Seiko is one of the few truly vertically integrated watch companies, producing everything from their own mainsprings to their crystals and oils. Their unique “Trimatic” system combines three core technologies: the Spring Drive movement (which blends mechanical and electronic elements), the Magic Lever automatic winding system, and the Spron alloy used in their springs.
The company’s commitment to in-house manufacturing extends to their luxury Grand Seiko line, which was spun off as a separate brand in 2017 to compete directly with high-end Swiss manufacturers. Seiko’s manufacturing approach spans from affordable automatic watches to high-end pieces featuring their innovative Spring Drive movement, demonstrating their ability to serve every segment of the watch market with distinction.
Below is a list of our top 10 favorite Seiko and Grand Seiko models:
10. Seiko 5 Sports SRPD51 – $295 msrp
The Seiko 5 Sports represents the perfect entry point into mechanical watches. This model carries forward the legacy of the iconic SKX dive watch series while modernizing it for contemporary wear. The 4R36 movement offers manual winding and hacking capabilities, improvements over its predecessor. The “5” in Seiko 5 represents five key features: automatic winding, day/date display, water resistance, recessed crown at 4 o’clock, and durable case and bracelet. This watch offers incredible value, featuring a robust automatic movement, excellent build quality, and versatile design that works in both casual and semi-formal settings.
9. Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRPB41 – $425 msrp
The Presage Cocktail Time showcases Seiko’s ability to create stunning dress watches at accessible price points. The sunburst blue dial, inspired by the “Blue Moon” cocktail, features a mesmerizing pattern that changes dramatically under different lighting conditions. The applied indices and dauphine hands demonstrate attention to detail typically found in much more expensive timepieces. This model perfectly balances elegance with everyday wearability, making it an excellent choice for both special occasions and regular use.
8. Seiko Prospex “King Turtle” SRPE07 – $595 msrp
The Cartier Ballon Bleu is one of Cartier’s most distinctive modern designs. The rounded case and unique crown guard create a perfectly symmetrical profile that’s both contemporary and classic. The automatic movement is housed in a case that features a sapphire cabochon crown protected by an integrated arch that flows seamlessly into the case design. The watch’s unique floating effect created by the domed crystal and the way the crown guard seems to embrace the blue cabochon has made it a favorite among both collectors and celebrities. The guilloché dial with Roman numerals and sword-shaped hands maintains Cartier’s signature aesthetic while offering excellent readability.
7. Seiko Prospex “Alpinist” SPB121 – $725 msrp
The Prospex Alpinist continues the legacy of Seiko’s original mountain watch from 1959. The modern interpretation maintains the distinctive field watch aesthetic with its cathedral hands and unique inner rotating compass bezel. The green sunburst dial with gold accents creates a striking appearance that sets it apart from typical sports watches. Powered by the newer 6R35 movement with its extended power reserve, this watch combines vintage charm with modern reliability. The Alpinist stands out for its versatility, equally at home on mountain trails or in urban environments.
6. Seiko Presage Sharp Edged GMT SPB221 – $1,400 msrp
The Presage Sharp Edged GMT showcases Seiko’s modern interpretation of traditional Japanese craftsmanship. The dial features an intricate hemp leaf pattern (Asanoha) that has been used in Japanese design for centuries. This GMT model combines cultural elements with practical functionality, featuring a true GMT movement with independent hour hand setting. The angular case design with its mix of brushed and polished surfaces demonstrates Seiko’s expertise in case finishing, while the upgraded movement provides extended power reserve and useful complications.
5. Seiko Prospex LX SNR029 – $5,500 msrp
The Prospex LX represents Seiko’s premium sports watch offering, featuring their innovative Spring Drive movement. Designed in collaboration with Ken Okuyama, known for his work with Ferrari, the LX series combines robust functionality with refined aesthetics. The Spring Drive movement provides the smooth sweep of mechanical watches with quartz accuracy, showcasing Seiko’s unique technological innovation. The titanium case construction ensures comfort despite its substantial size, while Zaratsu polishing – typically reserved for Grand Seiko – provides stunning case finishing.
4. Grand Seiko Heritage SBGA211 “Snowflake” – $6,200 msrp
The Grand Seiko Snowflake is my favorite watch in the Seiko and Grand Seiko collections, and perhaps the most iconic model in the modern Grand Seiko collection. Its nickname comes from the unique white textured dial that resembles freshly fallen snow, inspired by the winter landscape near the Shinshu Watch Studio. The titanium case and bracelet provide exceptional comfort, while the Spring Drive movement represents the perfect fusion of mechanical and electronic watchmaking. The hand-finished hands and markers demonstrate Grand Seiko’s famous attention to detail, with their razor-sharp edges and perfect polishing. This model exemplifies Grand Seiko’s philosophy of combining traditional craftsmanship with innovative technology.
3. Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH005 “White Birch” – $9,100 msrp
The Grand Seiko White Birch features the revolutionary 9SA5 movement, representing the pinnacle of Seiko’s mechanical watchmaking. The dial pattern is inspired by the white birch forests near the Grand Seiko studio in Shizukuishi, with a striking texture that captures light in captivating ways. The new Hi-Beat movement operates at 36,000 vibrations per hour while maintaining an impressive 80-hour power reserve, thanks to its innovative Dual Impulse Escapement. This watch won the 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Men’s Watch Prize, cementing its status as a modern horological masterpiece.
2. Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon SLGT003 – $350,000 msrp
| Watch Details | ||
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Power Reserve |
72 Hours |
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Jewel Count |
44 Jewels |
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Hacking |
Yes |
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Case Size |
43.8 mm |
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Where to Buy |
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Now we’re getting into the watches that are much more difficult to find on pre-owned or on the grey-market. Likely only for the collector, these are rare but they show the depth of the brand and it’s capability.
The Grand Seiko Kodo represents Grand Seiko’s first mechanical complication watch, featuring a unique constant-force tourbillon where both mechanisms are mounted on the same axis. This groundbreaking design, which took seven years to develop, combines two of the most challenging complications in watchmaking. The name “Kodo” means “heartbeat” in Japanese, referring to the unique sound of the constant-force mechanism marking each second. Limited to just 20 pieces, this watch demonstrates Grand Seiko’s ability to compete at the highest levels of haute horlogerie.
1. Credor Eichi II GBLT997 – $425,000 msrp
| Watch Details | ||
|---|---|---|
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Power Reserve |
60 Hours |
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Jewel Count |
41 Jewels |
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Hacking |
Yes |
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Case Size |
39 mm |
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Where to Buy |
N/A |
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The Credor Eichi II represents the absolute pinnacle of Seiko’s watchmaking capabilities. Created at the Micro Artist Studio in Shiojiri, each watch is hand-crafted by master watchmakers who also produce high-end minute repeaters and sonneries. The porcelain dial is made by Noritake, featuring hand-painted blue indices and hands that appear to float above the pristine white surface. The Spring Drive movement is hand-finished to the highest standards, rivaling the finest Swiss and German watchmaking. The platinum case houses what many consider to be the most beautifully finished movement in contemporary watchmaking, with hand-beveled bridges and plates that showcase the Japanese approach to perfection. Limited to just a handful of pieces per year, the Eichi II represents the philosophy of “shibui” – unobtrusive sophistication that reveals its true beauty only upon closer inspection.
This is the end of our breakdown of the Seiko and Grand Seiko brands as well as their top watches by our standards. There is a really good bang for buck in the #10 – #4 on the list here and many of these watches are readily available. These are also not frequently duplicated or copied, so you can trust many of the ones you find on eBay or Amazon.
