A brief history of Cartier watches
Founded in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier in Paris, Cartier has long been synonymous with luxury and innovation in both jewelry and watchmaking. The company got its nickname “Jeweler of Kings, King of Jewelers” from King Edward VII of England, and has since served countless royal families and celebrities. Cartier’s venture into watchmaking began in earnest in 1904 when Louis Cartier created one of the first modern wristwatches, the Santos, for his friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, a pioneering Brazilian aviator.
The house of Cartier revolutionized the watch industry by being among the first to successfully transform pocket watches into wristwatches, making them both functional and fashionable. Their iconic designs like the Tank, inspired by military tanks from World War I, have become timeless symbols of luxury and sophistication. Today, Cartier continues to blend their jewelry expertise with watchmaking precision, creating timepieces that are both mechanical masterpieces and stunning pieces of jewelry.
Cartier’s Commitment to Innovation With Updates Like the Quick Switch System
Cartier’s dedication to innovation and craftsmanship is evident in their Fine Watchmaking collection, where they push the boundaries of mechanical complexity while maintaining their distinctive aesthetic. Updates like their quick-switch system have given rise to a market of straps and gives the owner the ability to quickly change the look & feel of the watch without any tools.
Their in-house manufacture in Switzerland, established in 2001, develops and produces sophisticated movements while upholding the maison’s heritage of excellence. Cartier’s approach to watchmaking uniquely combines their jewelry-making expertise with horological innovation, resulting in timepieces that are both technically impressive and visually stunning.
The brand continues to evolve while maintaining its core identity, introducing new interpretations of classic models while developing cutting-edge complications. Their commitment to sustainability and ethical sourcing of materials has also positioned them as a leader in responsible luxury, ensuring their timepieces are not only beautiful but also conscientiously crafted. As far as values go, Cartier watches hold their values quite well and are a really great bang-for-buck.
Below is a list of our top 10 favorite Cartier models:
10. Cartier Tank Must ref. WSTA0109 – $2,740 msrp
| Watch Details | ||
|---|---|---|
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Power Reserve |
38 Hours |
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Jewel Count |
21 Jewels |
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Hacking |
Yes |
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Case Size |
33.7×25.5mm |
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Where to Buy |
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The Cartier Tank Must is the most accessible entry point into Cartier’s iconic Tank collection. This modern interpretation of the classic Tank design features the signature Roman numerals, blue sword-shaped hands, and the distinctive square case with rounded corners. In my opinion, at the entry level for this cost, it’s worth it to pay a little extra for the automatic movement. This watch is a timeless classic that you can dress up or down and any watch enthusiast will recognize it.
9. Cartier Santos-Dumont ref. WSSA0085 – $7,300 msrp
| Watch Details | ||
|---|---|---|
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Power Reserve |
42 Hours |
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Jewel Count |
23 Jewels |
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Hacking |
Yes |
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Case Size |
31.4mm x 43.5mm |
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Where to Buy |
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The Cartier Santos-Dumont pays homage to the original pilot’s watch created in 1904. This version maintains the historic square case with exposed screws, while maintaining a slimmer profile. The manual-winding movement keeps the case thin and elegant, making it perfect for formal occasions – this is one of the thinnest automatic movements available. The beaded crown set with a synthetic cabochon spinel adds a touch of Cartier’s jewelry expertise. The watch’s elegant proportions and historical significance make it a cornerstone piece in Cartier’s collection, perfect for those who appreciate both heritage and sophistication in their timepieces. I, personally, have the large size in my own collection and wear it very regularly. I love the quick-change system that allows me to bring a couple of extra straps on a trip with me and quickly switch the straps based on what I’m wearing.
The biggest complaint about this watch is the crown gets scratched. Some folks like the way the scratches add a worn-in feel which can age well.
8. Cartier Ballon Bleu Ref. WSBB0044 – $6,250 msrp
| Watch Details | ||
|---|---|---|
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Power Reserve |
40 Hours |
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Jewel Count |
25 Jewels |
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Hacking |
Yes |
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Case Size |
40mm |
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Where to Buy |
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The Cartier Ballon Bleu is one of Cartier’s most distinctive modern designs. The rounded case and unique crown guard create a perfectly symmetrical profile that’s both contemporary and classic. The automatic movement is housed in a case that features a sapphire cabochon crown protected by an integrated arch that flows seamlessly into the case design. The watch’s unique floating effect created by the domed crystal and the way the crown guard seems to embrace the blue cabochon has made it a favorite among both collectors and celebrities. The guilloché dial with Roman numerals and sword-shaped hands maintains Cartier’s signature aesthetic while offering excellent readability.
7. Cartier Panthère de Cartier Ref. WJPN0019 – $26,900 msrp
| Watch Details | ||
|---|---|---|
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Power Reserve |
38 Hours |
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Jewel Count |
22 Jewels |
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Hacking |
Yes |
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Case Size |
30mm x 22mm |
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Where to Buy |
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The Panthère de Cartier embodies the maison’s jewelry expertise with its flexible bracelet design and elegant proportions. This particular model features a yellow gold case and bracelet with the signature square dial. The quartz movement ensures precise timekeeping while maintaining the watch’s slim profile. This is one of the few quartz watches we’ll include, since it belongs to a luxury brand. The bracelet’s distinctive brick-lay pattern, designed to mimic the fluid movement of a panther, leans into Cartier’s jewelry-forward approach to watchmaking. Each link is meticulously crafted to ensure both flexibility and durability, demonstrating Cartier’s mastery in metallurgy and design.
6. Cartier Pasha Ref. WSPA0013 – $28,100 msrp
| Watch Details | ||
|---|---|---|
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Power Reserve |
40 Hours |
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Jewel Count |
27 Jewels |
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Hacking |
Yes |
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Case Size |
41mm |
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Where to Buy |
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The Cartier Pasha stands out with its distinctive round case and unique crown protector. Originally designed in the 1980s, this modern version features the manufacture 1847 MC automatic movement. The signature square minute track within the round dial and the four Arabic numerals at the quarters create a bold yet elegant appearance. This particular reference includes the innovative QuickSwitch system for easy strap changes and the SmartLink size adjustment system for the bracelet, making it both versatile and user-friendly. The chained crown cover, a hallmark of the Pasha line, adds both functionality and distinctive character to the piece.
5. Cartier Tank Louis Cartier Ref. WGTA0011 – $35,000 msrp
| Watch Details | ||
|---|---|---|
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Power Reserve |
38 Hours |
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Jewel Count |
21 Jewels |
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Hacking |
Yes |
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Case Size |
33.7mm x 25.5mm |
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Where to Buy |
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The Tank Louis Cartier represents the pinnacle of the Tank collection. This model features a rose gold case and the manual-winding 8971 MC movement. The classic Tank design is elevated with refined proportions and exceptional finishing, including the perfectly polished case flanks and the precisely aligned Roman numerals. The silvered sandblasted dial provides a subtle texture that catches light beautifully, while the blued-steel sword-shaped hands maintain the traditional Cartier aesthetic. This particular reference showcases the maison’s attention to detail with its railroad minute track and the iconic sapphire cabochon crown, making it a true collector’s piece that embodies the essence of luxury watchmaking.
4. Cartier Santos de Cartier Skeleton Ref. WHSA0015 – $69,000 msrp
| Watch Details | ||
|---|---|---|
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Power Reserve |
72 Hours |
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Jewel Count |
26 Jewels |
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Hacking |
Yes |
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Case Size |
39.8mm x 47.5mm |
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Where to Buy |
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The Santos de Cartier Skeleton showcases Cartier’s technical prowess with its openworked movement. The bridges of the manual-winding 9611 MC movement are ingeniously crafted to form Roman numerals, creating a stunning architectural display. This reference features a titanium case with ADLC (Amorphous Diamond-Like Carbon) coating, providing exceptional durability while maintaining the iconic Santos design elements. The skeletonized movement isn’t just for show – it demonstrates Cartier’s ability to merge technical innovation with artistic expression, as each bridge serves both a structural and aesthetic purpose.
In my opinion, this is one of the nicest looking watches you can get for a much lower price on the secondary market.
3. Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Hour Skeleton Ref. WHRO0043 – $145,000 msrp
| Watch Details | ||
|---|---|---|
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Power Reserve |
48 Hours |
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Jewel Count |
27 Jewels |
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Hacking |
Yes |
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Case Size |
42 mm |
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Where to Buy |
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The Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Hour Skeleton combines two of Cartier’s most fascinating specialties: the mysterious movement and skeleton work. The hands appear to float in space, thanks to two sapphire discs with hidden teeth on their periphery, while the manual-winding 9983 MC movement is beautifully exposed. This reference features a platinum case and showcases Cartier’s mastery of both technical innovation and aesthetic refinement. The mysterious hour display, a tradition dating back to Cartier’s famous Mystery Clocks of the 1910s, is reimagined here in a contemporary skeleton format, creating a mesmerizing visual effect where the hands seem to float in mid-air.
2. Cartier Masse Mystérieuse Ref. WHRO0070 – $425,000 msrp
| Watch Details | ||
|---|---|---|
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Power Reserve |
42 Hours |
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Jewel Count |
43 Jewels |
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Hacking |
Yes |
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Case Size |
43.5 mm |
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Where to Buy |
N/A |
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Now we’re into the watches that are not as easy to find. The Cartier Masse Mystérieuse is a revolutionary timepiece where the entire movement serves as an oscillating weight. This technical tour de force took eight years to develop, resulting in the caliber 9801 MC, where all components rotate within a sapphire crystal disc while maintaining accurate timekeeping. This reference represents Cartier’s most innovative approach to watchmaking yet, featuring a platinum case and a completely unique movement architecture. The entire mechanism appears to float in space, with the rotor, gear train, and balance wheel all contained within the semi-circular oscillating mass. It’s a perfect fusion of Cartier’s mysterious movement heritage with cutting-edge horological innovation, limited to just 30 pieces worldwide.
Noting watches like these is fun because they make me re-think the way I look at watches and the seemingly endless possibilities.
1. Cartier Grand Complication Skeleton Ref. WHRO0021 – $620,000 msrp
| Watch Details | ||
|---|---|---|
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Power Reserve |
50 Hours |
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Jewel Count |
47 Jewels |
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Hacking |
Yes |
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Case Size |
45 mm |
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Where to Buy |
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The Cartier Grand Complication Skeleton represents the absolute pinnacle of Cartier’s watchmaking capabilities. This exceptional timepiece combines a perpetual calendar, minute repeater, and tourbillon in a fully skeletonized movement. The caliber 9406 MC movement showcases extraordinary finishing with hand-beveled bridges and intricate details visible through the transparent case. Each piece is assembled by a single master watchmaker, taking months to complete, making it one of the most exclusive and complicated watches in Cartier’s collection. The platinum case houses a movement comprising 578 individual components, each finished to the highest standards of haute horlogerie. The minute repeater chimes the hours, quarters, and minutes on demand with perfect clarity, while the perpetual calendar mechanism accurately tracks the date until the year 2100 without requiring adjustment. The tourbillon, visible at 6 o’clock, rotates once per minute, demonstrating Cartier’s mastery of one of watchmaking’s most challenging complications. Limited to just 5 pieces annually, this watch represents the marriage of Cartier’s jewelry expertise with the pinnacle of watchmaking innovation.
Surprisingly enough, this one or similar can be found on eBay, and with the authenticity guarantee, a genuine piece can be had for reasonable pricing.
